Pitti Fragranze 2018: Sarah Colton at entrance of Pitti Fragranze. (Photograph Credit score Copyright © Sarah Baker)
Emptiness was maybe THE phrase circulating at Pitti Fragranze this yr. Empty areas within the often bustling and crowded corridors, and within the convention rooms, the place standing room solely has beforehand been the norm. Empty areas within the often crowded cafeteria, and at the cocktail social gathering. Maybe most significantly, the phrase vacancy, or lack of creativity and originality was circulating on the lips of Pitti Fragranze 2018 attendees to explain many of the perfume choices.
Pitti Fragranze 2018: Andy Tauer’s Instagram publish of September 19, 2018 wrote of the scent of worry
A assertion revealed on Instagram by Andy Tauer, proprietor of Andy Tauer, a rigorously curated, distinctive, and mature area of interest perfume model, provided additional perception on this vacancy: “The scent of Fear: At the Pitti Fragranze you would expect that the air of a niche fragrance fair is filled with delightful scents beyond the ordinary. In reality, it was more like the scents that you get anywhere, from department stores to perfumeries: functional building blocks. Why? My guess is that too many are scared to be original and too few are using quality ingredients. Entering the fair was olfactory depressing there was a palpable scent of fear.” In fact, Andy’s assertion didn’t check with ALL the fragrances, nor to all elements of Pitti. It did, nevertheless, precisely describe many.
Looking for explanations for this state of worry at Pitti Fragranze 2018, I referred to as on reminiscence and the opinions of a couple of trusted buddies.
The Scent of Fear-Pitti Fragranze 2018: François Hénin, Sarah Baker proprietor of Sarah Baker Parfums, and Yana Lysenko, blogger, in entrance of Wang Valley idea retailer in Florence.
A Bit of Historical past
Since its beginnings 16 years in the past Pitti Fragranze has been the Queen of Autumn, THE area of interest perfume salon of the season with its superb date and site. A proper of passage for any model getting into the market. As François Hénin, proprietor and founder of the model Jovoy Paris put it, “What brand owner or buyer can decently resist a weekend in Florence in early September? Italy is the largest European niche fragrance market, the weather is beautiful, the food is fabulous, you can walk everywhere, and mid-September is an ideal time for Pre-Christmas sales.” But, over the previous few years, the inhabitants has been shrinking and shifting. Why is there the scent of worry?
On the Officina suite at the Lodge Montebello Splendide Franck Muller show
.Shifting ‘Off Campus’
For one factor, a rising quantity of established distributors and types are selecting to not present at Pitti Fragranze and as an alternative are shifting ‘off campus’ to various places in Florence. Final yr, I visited two ‘off campus’ websites the place Italian distributors Officina and Olfattorio had arrange camp in luxurious places. Right here shoppers and journalists might be pampered with VIP providers corresponding to catered meals, snacks, and relaxed particular person consideration. This yr at Pitti Fragranze 2018, I spent much more time ‘off campus’. Officina was arrange for the second yr in a row at the Lodge Montebello Splendide with its manufacturers Robert Piguet, Compagnie de Provence, Etat Libre d’Orange, Franck Muller, J.U.S, Nicolai, and others.
Histoires de Parfums proprietor Gerard Ghislain and Marina Crosa at Momoni store in Florence.
The French model Histoires de Parfums, was arrange at the Momoni clothes boutique in central Florence. Proprietor Gerard Ghislain stated, “We have been exhibiting at Pitti for more than 6 years. We are mature and have our own network. This year we chose not to exhibit at Pitti and to only exhibit at Momoni, a store within a 10-minute walk of Statione Leopolda, and where we sell our fragrances This was much less expensive for us, and offered a pleasant alternative for our clients. It also brought potential clients to the shop, so it was good for them and good for our reputation with them.”
On the launch of the brand new Campo Marzio 70 boutique in Florence, Mona di Orio CEO Jeroen Oude Sogtoen chats with in-home perfumer, Frederik Dalman.
I visited the Florentine idea retailer, Wang Valley, at the invitation of François Hénin the place Essenses Italia, the Italian distributor for François’ manufacturers Jovoy and Jeroboam, had arrange a 24 hour pop-up store. In the meantime, the distributor Campo Marzio 70, as an alternative of displaying at Pitti, selected to launch its new Florence boutique on the Saturday night time of Pitti. The celebration a knock down drag out affair!
At Campo Marzio 70 boutique perfumers Stephanie Bakouche and Lucas Maffei
A Story of Two Cities
Even earlier than arriving in Florence, I had been listening to from an alarmingly giant quantity of area of interest model house owners that they weren’t planning to return to Pitti or Florence at all this yr, and as an alternative have been deliberate to go to Cannes two weeks later to coincide with the dates of TFWA, the annual Obligation Free and Journey Retail International Summit. Equally to the off-campus state of affairs at Pitti, just a few of these manufacturers have been truly going to formally exhibit at TFWA, whereas most have been planning to arrange store in rented flats or on yachts for conferences and events with shoppers. Granted, the quantity of area of interest manufacturers doing this has been growing over the previous a number of years, however most have been additionally exhibiting at Pitti Fragranze. Talking off the highest of my head, lengthy-time Pitti manufacturers who didn’t exhibit this yr and plan to attend Cannes are: Jovoy, Ulrich Lang New York, Neela Vermeire, Histoires de Parfums, Etat Libre d’Orange, Robert Piquet, Masque Milano, and so on.
On the 4160Tuesdays stand, Sarah McCartney model proprietor and perfumer chats with perfume reviewer Yana Lysenko
A main cause for that is the brand new proximity of the TFWA dates. Whereas beforehand, TFWA was held nearer to the top of October, the date has been inching ahead over the previous two years, primarily poaching on the mid-September Pitti dates which have been fastened for greater than a decade.
Olfactorio stand at Pitti with Alexander Vreeland at Diana Vreeland Parfums speaking with shoppers.
Alexander Vreeland, proprietor of Diana Vreeland Parfums, who exhibited at Pitti and also will be in Cannes, defined it this manner. “The proximity timing wise between Pitti Fragranze and TFWA is so close that many stores do not want to make both trips. Those stores seem to choose Cannes.” Alexander went on to elucidate, “Many stores have selected the niche brands they want to develop and are not really searching for additional ones. Therefore, the stores that go to Pitti are searching for new brands while many stores are learning how to grow sales from their current portfolio in lieu of adding additional collections.”
Maurice Locke co-proprietor of Osme Perfumery in Miami
The place does this depart the remaining of the manufacturers? And the place does it depart retailers, distributors, consumers, and commerce-truthful organizers? In all this alteration and uncertainty, one factor is for certain. Solely a small proportion of area of interest manufacturers are getting the lion’s share of the eye. In the meantime many, too many, manufacturers play it protected with unimaginative choices, when by definition and duty they need to be pushing the sides of creativity and taking dangers.The large numbers of these protected fragrances muddle the market and exhibits, confuse the general public, and draw criticism in a area that may’t take in them. Michael Edwards, whom Evelyn Lauder as soon as dubbed “The perfumer expert’s expert”, has been telling us this for years in his lectures and annual Fragrances of the World publications.
François Hénin who along with proudly owning the Jovoy perfume model, additionally owns Jovoy retail outlets in Paris, London, Quatar, and Dubai, and thus speaks with the authority of an skilled retailer, provides this recommendation to anybody considering the creation of a brand new fragrance line: “The glory days of niche fragrance, during which pretty much anybody could present an idea, and eventually survive and maybe even thrive — is OVER ! Guys, stop wasting your money if you don’t have anything exceptional to say. Stop imagining that the cake is so beautiful that you are going to get a big part. That’s not true. To succeed as a niche fragrance brand in today’s market takes a sizeable investment, a clear business plan, and most importantly, a truly original and creative product and story. Don’t send me one more chypre, mulit-floral, or oud that smells like 50 other fragrances.”
Again to vacancy. And changing the scent of worry with the scent of hope.
Jules Dinand bottle designer and and Mohamed Rebatchi at cocktails… Maison Rebatchi was one of many we reported about who introduced some refreshing newness to Pitti
Anybody who has ever been concerned in artistic course of is aware of that vacancy is a central ingredient, and that typically one wants to attend in vacancy for the nicely to refill.I think about the type of vacancy we’re experiencing now if we, as a group, can take it upon ourselves to continuously weed and shield the sacred areas of vacancy from worry and greed. There’ll not be the scent of worry…however of innovation. And on a constructive word, I did discover a number of actually thrilling fragrances at Pitti Fragranze 2018 – full of vitality, character, depth, and even humor. I’ll inform you about them subsequent time or please learn Danu’s Pitti Fragranze 2018 recap, Sebastian’s and Ermano’s (half 1 and a couple of).
Sarah Colton, writer of Dangerous Women Fragrance and Contributor
Word: We’ve reporting about the evolving world of area of interest because the summer time of 2010 and the necessity for innovation and creativity. Please learn our article right here. Please learn our Unbiased Perfumery collection that includes seven indie perfumeries who’re altering the olfactive panorama right here .
With particular because of Sarah Baker of Sarah Baker Parfums for her help with photographs